End of tour
Weather on site
Accommodation and food
Expedition to Peak Lenin is your passport to the world of big mountains! Many people start their expeditions above 7000m with Lenin Peak, as it is one of the technically easiest peaks in the Pamir Mountains. The great popularity of the ascents of Peak Lenin is also due to its accessibility by transport. One can reach the base camp from Osh by all-terrain vehicle. A helicopter is not required for the trip. It also means that the cost of the expedition is much lower.
- Little difficult high altitude tour (PD and WS according to the Mountaineering scale).
- The expedition is suitable for fit and experienced climbers
- Climbing skills are not necessary
- In the ascent glaciated passages with partly up to 35° steep flanks have to be climbed in independent and autonomous rope teams.
- The endurance for several days of ascents from 1,000 to 1,900 meters in high altitude is absolutely necessary.
- Daily walking times of 4 to 8 hours, on the summit day even up to 14 hours are feasible
- Health and physical condition must be in top shape
- Experience from previous expeditions is not necessary, but of course an advantage.
- On the mountain, teamwork and camaraderie is required from each participant
- Below you will find the usual schedule for the expedition, which lasts about 19 days without arrival and departure.
Below you will find the usual schedule for the expedition, which lasts about 19 days without arrival and departure.
Welcome to the warm city of Osh, the largest city in the south of Kyrgyzstan, where you will be welcomed by hospitable people. In Osh, a transport will be waiting for you to take you to the Pamir-Alai Mountains. Edelweiss Glade Base Camp is the largest functioning camp in the Achik-Tash tract and the last point to be reached by car. From there the expedition starts. The base camp (3600 m) is a complex of tents, kitchens, bathhouses and showers, several toilets, a volleyball court and, more importantly, several heated yurts with different purposes - from a café to a dance floor. The tents are equipped with electricity, individual lighting (table lamps), wooden flooring, mattresses, blankets, pillows and bedding.
The area around the base camp is beautiful: colorful slopes, a wild river, the snow-capped peaks. On that day at the latest, the equipment is checked and the unnecessary things are sorted out. There is no need to worry about the integrity and safety of the luggage in the storage room. The guard of the base camp is responsible for it. It is recommended to take a walk in the surroundings that day: it will be useful for acclimatization to reach the next pass at 4100 m altitude.
The ascent to the Puteshestvennikov pass usually takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours - depending on the condition of the participants. At the top of the pass it is always windy and there may be snow. Take a breath - the panorama offered to you on the top of the pass is so overwhelming that it will take your breath away! On the way you will pass the glade of marmots. Local inhabitants of the clearing - marmots whistling in different ways, running somewhere in the distance, not paying attention to you. Then the path becomes almost horizontal and runs parallel to the left moraine berm for a long time. You cross the rough mountain river and climb up to the path leading to Lenin glacier - about 2.5 to 3 hours. The hike along the body of the glacier takes about 30-40 minutes, bypassing several cracks. Camp 1 is located on the moraine of Lenin Glacier and is the most comfortable camp. There are three large and comfortable yurts that will keep you warm. You can also drink a cup of hot tea or coffee, listen to guitar music and songs and even have a banquet.
Acclimatization on Juhin Peak 5100m and altitude training. Return to camp 1.
On the day you get up very early and go to camp 2. You go in a rope team. First you go along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the magnificent north face and then up a very steep and snowy slope, avoiding dangerous crevasses. Then go right up the slope to a plateau known among locals as "Skovoroda" and cross it to Camp 2 (6 - 7 hours walking). Accommodation in camp 2 is tents. Overnight stay at 5300m.
From Camp 2 uphill to the adjacent ridge and then long, almost gentle traverse to the summit of Razdelnaya (6200m). Steep ascent to the summit and descent to the redoubt at 6100m. Camp 3 is located below Razdelnaya Peak. The ascent takes about 5-6 hours. In case you feel unwell and have a headache, you should equip yourself with the "high altitude pharmacy" - after all, you are at 6100 meters above sea level! Overnight stay at 6100 meters.
Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m.) The descent is much shorter and in just under 4 - 5 hours you are already sitting in Camp 1 enjoying the achievements: Internet, showers, good food and a selection of soft drinks. Rest. The best moment to gather energy and strength is the descent the next day to the base camp (3600 m). The lower altitude makes it easier to gather energy and strength. And it is much more comfortable to sleep at the altitude 3600m.
Descent on already known route. It is so nice to be again in the middle of bright alpine flowers and warm under the Pamir sun! For those who want to feel like a CLEAN person after the climb, Base Camp offers a great sauna. It is heated daily in the afternoon.
A day of rest. Resting should be active and interesting! In Base Camp there is a volleyball court! Sometimes there are international games in which everyone can participate. Sometimes there are even funny games - sheep against a crate of beer or something similar. You can go for a walk in the surroundings - there are many beautiful lakes near the camp with yaks grazing on their shores.
Rest day. There is a possibility to walk in the picturesque surroundings, interact with marmots and take photos. You will not find such views anywhere else!
Ascent to camp 1 (4400m), familiar path, camp and its inhabitants, yurt. Here it is cozy, like at home. And when towards evening the lanterns are lit and the darkness of the sky becomes thick and cold, the small world of Camp 1 shrinks to the size of a microcosm, and its life continues on the illuminated moraine island in the heart of the Lenin glacier... It is strange to imagine yourself, such a small and defenseless little man, at such an unimaginable distance high in the mountains of the mysterious and mighty Pamir.
Ascent to camp 2 (5300m). Again getting up early and walking as a rope team. The trail is not as stretched for hours as the first time, acclimatization was successful. You arrive quite early at Camp 2, so you can regain strength and get enough sleep.
Ascent to camp 3 (6100m). The main task after the ascent is to prepare for the upcoming climb. One should prepare well for the night and recover. One should also try to get as much sleep as possible. And of course one should pay attention to the diet
Ascends to the Peak Lenin at 7134m. Get up early, the summit is waiting! One usually starts at 3 o'clock in the morning. From the bridge - steep ascent about 300m, then a gentle ridge to the "leg" - a steep and narrow snow-ice ridge (be careful when climbing), then along the stony ridge - exit to the snowy plateau (6900m - 7000m) and climb to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134m). Here it is - the summit! The whole Pamir is at your feet! A souvenir photo, 20-30 minutes - weather permitting - to catch up on the action and that's it. Descent to camp 3.
Descent to camp 1 (4400m). After the descent, a cozy warm yurt with hot dinner awaits at camp 1! In the evening you have the opportunity to sit together with your friends and celebrate your fulfilled dream. Camp 1 is known for being constantly populated by people from all over the world, as it is here that both those who have just started their descent and those who have already made it safely meet most often - so there is never a dull moment here!
Descent to the base camp (3600 m), bathhouse and traditional dinner in the yurt specially arranged for your return. By prior arrangement, dinner may include a well-done young lamb. Then you will dive into the oriental exoticism! Only sitting on authentic Kyrgyz kurpachas, with a piece of freshly cooked lamb in your hand, you will feel the tender national culture of the nomadic people.
Reserve day in case of bad weather on the day of the first storming. If the weather proves to be too cooperative, you can use this reserve day for a walk in Osh. You will not regret it!
Transfer from the base camp to Osh, hotel accommodation. Evening walk through the city.
That's it. No need to think about the plan of the upcoming ascent and pack the backpack in the cool Pamir wind to look at the beautiful and tempting Peak Lenin. Tomorrow will be the start of the usual routine. But this day of the week will bring a whole new feeling, which will always remind you of all that you have experienced, seen and felt this summer.
An enjoyable tour requires careful planning of the same. Please inform yourself beforehand at the local information office about the route and weather conditions. Depending on the season and weather conditions, this route may be closed or interrupted