A mountaineering tour is a mountain tour that takes place at the altitude level of year-round ice cover. 

One should never underestimate these tours. Mountaineering tours require special preparation and equipment.

 

Packing list

Proper equipment for the tours is a question that is very difficult to answer! It depends on the season and weather, as well as the type and duration of the tour. Basically: as little as possible, as much as necessary!

Here is the link to our suggestion.

 

Mountaineering scale

The SAC has developed its own scale especially for alpine rock and ice tours. The reference point for the classification of a route is always the corresponding key point . In the case of major deviations, the areas are indicated directly in the description header. From the second degree of difficulty, there is a fine gradation via + and - and any climbing points are described with the UIAA scale.

In addition, French terms are often used. For example, the grade "quite difficult" is abbreviated ZS or AD for "assez difficile". From grade AS or ED (extremely difficult/extrêment difficile), you must also expect ice climbing passages that require appropriate equipment such as ice axes or crampons.

German French English Rock UIAA grade Firn and glaciers Examples
L
leicht

 F
facile

 easy

 Easy walking terrain (scree, simple boulder ridge). from I Easy firn slopes, hardly any crevasses.
  • Piz Tschierva, Ostgrat
  • Wildhorn, from Wildhornhütte
  • Bishorn, from Tracuithütte
WS
wenig schwierig
 PD
peu difficile		 not very hard Mostly still walking terrain, increased surefootedness necessary, climbing passages clear and problem-free. from II As a rule, little steep slopes, short steeper passages, few crevasses.
  • Piz Palü, Normal route
  • Balmhorn, Normal route
  • Weissmies, Normal route
ZS
ziemlich schwierig
 AD
assez difficile		 fairly hard Repeated belaying necessary, longer and exposed climbing sections. from III Steep slopes, occasional belay, many crevasses, small bergschrund.
  • Piz Bernina, Biancograt
  • Mönch, Westgrat
  • Matterhorn, Hörnligrat
S
schwierig
 D
difficile		 hard Good route sense and efficient rope handling required, long climbs, mostly require belaying. from IV Very steep slopes, mostly belaying necessary, many crevasses, large bergschrund.
  • Piz Palü, Ostpfeiler des Ostgipfels
  • Eiger, Mittelegigrat
  • Weisshorn, Schaligrat
SS
sehr schwierig
 TD
très difficile		 very hard In the difficult sections belaying is necessary throughout, persistently demanding climbing. from V Sustained steep terrain, continuous belay.
  • Piz Bernina, direct Westwand
  • Doldenhorn, Ostgrat
  • Dent Blanche, Nordgrat
AS
äusserst schwierig
 ED
extrêmement difficile		 extremely hard Wall climbs that require great commitment. from VI Very steep and vertical places, require ice climbing.
  • Eiger-Nordwand (Heckmair)
  • Matterhorn, Zmuttnase
EX
extrem schwierig
 ABO
abominablement difficile		 incredible hard Extremely steep, partially overhanging wall climbs. from VII Ice climbing extreme direction.
  • Eiger-Nordwand (various routes in the western part of the wall)

 

Help criteria

  • demanding orientation,
  • difficult protection, unreliable rock,
  • Aborting the tour problematic. [1]

SimplyTourIt assumes no liability for this information.

References

[1] Berg- und Hochtourenskala SAC. 5. September 2012